[Sorry for the delay – I finally have some dependable wifi. The wifi on the river ship is by satellite and we have travelled through some narrow gorges.]

Between Nuremberg, Germany, and Vienna, Austria, the Danube River courses past towns and villages whose character seems frozen in time, at least from the vantage point of a river cruise ship. Our tour stopped at three of them, Regensburg and Passau, Germany, and Melk, Austria.

Regensburg, our first stop, apparently one of Germany’s best-preserved medieval cities highlights the Gothic St. Peter’s Church, Old Town Hall and the 12th-century Old Stone Bridge as Germany’s oldest bridge. It is also claims to be home to the oldest sausage kitchen, located near the bridge. I don’t know if we were just hungry or if they truly are the best sausages I’ve ever eaten, but I do know that we were pleasantly surprised at how good were the sausages on sauerkraut served with crusty rolls – that the dark beer, even to this non-regular-beer-drinker, was absolutely fantastic – thirst quenching and flavorful.

Regensburg mural

Regensburg old stone bridge

Regensburg – woman on the right plucking petals – he loves me? loves me not?

Regensburg portal

Regensburg river

Regensburg sausage kitchen

Regensburg sausages

Regensburg St Peters

Passau, Germany, is a beautiful historic city at the confluence of three rivers – the Danube, the Inn and the Ilz – and thus susceptible to flooding. High water marks are kept on buildings throughout town, and the mark for the flood of 2013 was only exceeded by that for 1501. Rather amazing that 500+ years later they just keep rebuilding and carrying on. Cobblestone streets and historic building are carefully restored; our guide explained that, two years after the 2013 flood they still have difficulty finding enough skilled craftsman to complete the restoration today.

A guided tour barely scratches the surface of the patina of these towns. After our visit I happened upon a CNN story about Passau being used as drop-off point by refugees from the Middle East wars. I would so have liked to learn more – why Passau, why this quaint little town? Were we passing refugee ships in the night as we cruised down the Wachau valley? What are their stories, and how can we help?

Passau cathedral

Passau shopping

Passau shopping street

Passau rivers confluence

Passau high water marks

Passau cruise ship

In the night we cruised into Austria and docked at Melk. A Jesuit Abbey dominates Melk, Austria, and during our tour I caught sight of one of the brothers skirting the edge of the courtyard, skillfully avoiding the tour groups on his way. The Abbey contains a middle-high school that is growing in student population and currently has 900 day students – tuition is only 80 euros a month! They no longer board students in order to have more classrooms for the burgeoning student population drawn from the local towns.

The cruise ship passed through the beautiful Wachau Valley in the late evening – at this time of year it stays light past 9pm. One of the most peaceful times aboard the cruise ship is standing on the top deck during a warm evening, alone at a rail, wondering about the lives of those we are passing.

Melk view

Melk town

Melk marker

Melk brother

Melk Abbey

Cruising evening

Cruise dropoff of the evening’s entertainment