[NOTE: Still having problems being able to upload photos – the river ship uses satellite for internet, so i will upload the photos related to the story below as soon as I can]

We left France behind with a quick one-hour flight from Paris to Nuremberg, Germany, and even on this short trip we were served food in the Air France tradition – roll with goat cheese, fennel and honey – so unlike American flights where an ounce-pack of dry mini pretzels during a 5 hour coast-to-coast trip is an unexpected treat. Have you ever landed at San Francisco International airport, where you seem to be skimming the top of the Bay, certain you’re landing in the water, and at the very last second the wheels touching down on the edge of the tarmac? In Nuremberg you skim the top of what I believe is the Black Forest – a huge, flat dense forest – wheels just above the treetops, seeming close enough to touch, and then you land in a sudden edge of airport tarmac.

We slapped the Viking Cruise stickers on our shirts and deplaned to be welcomed immediately by a Viking Cruise line representative. The luxury segment of our trip had begun! No more car rental negotiations or GPS or schlepping suitcases up several flights of stairs. Our bags were whisked away by a uniformed Viking Cruise representative, and in short order we were aboard the Viking Var, room 107. We’re travelling from Nuremberg, Germany, to Budapest, Hungary over an 8-day period, with no concerns in the world regarding where we will eat or sleep or tour or shop. I had originally thought we might drive from Paris through Germany, Austria and Hungary on our way to Croatia, but when I started working out the logistics of renting a car in one country and leaving it in another, that plan began to unwind. Thanks to a well-placed ad during an episode of Downton Abbey on PBS, Viking solved all our logistical problems with their “Romantic Danube” trip. I’ve uploaded here the detailed description of the 8 day trip so you can follow along.   The cruise consists of meals and evening activities aboard on of their river long-ships – ours is the “Var” named after some Nordic god – with both included and optional excursions in the towns we visit. Each evening is a briefing on the next days activities and sometimes a presentation on local culture, the Danube history, or the Viking Cruise company itself. Last night I learned that Viking is privately owned and based, interestingly, in Los Angeles with an office in Basel, Switzerland. It is owned by the Hagen family whose daughter is the face and voice of the ads. Of course she’s a gorgeous Nordic blonde. There is no justice.

Our day trip to Nuremberg was fascinating and educational. Nuremberg is known by most for the Nuremberg trials of Nazi war criminals after WWII, but it’s a vital city otherwise. The most chilling part of our day excursion was a tour of the Nazi parade grounds. We’ve all seen familiar pictures of Hitler standing at the very podium which today is used for rock concerts and sports events and car rallies, one of which was happening the day we were there.

Nuremberg Nazi Parade 1903s

I found most interesting the way today’s Germans describe that awful period in their history.   I found a sign that described 1933 as when “the seizure of power by the NSDAP (predecessor of Nazis) marked the beginning of oppression and destruction of political freedom and economic self-government.” A great reminder that most people living under dictatorship just want to live good lives and take care of their families.

Nuremberg is now a vibrant, creative and productive city. After our tour of the former Nazi parade grounds we toured the heart of the city, so much needed rebuilding after the war. Churches and open air markets, outdoor art and restaurants, and scenes that could not have existed during Hitler’s time – these cute little girls, clearly best friends, one black, one white, just walking along having a chat.

Back on the ship, we took off for the next stop, Passau, Germany. One of the many treats of taking a river cruise is watching the ship navigate the river – and during this trip we go through 12 locks – I believe it’s 7 locks up and 5 locks down. During one of the “up” locks we were able to sit on the forward deck as the ship entered the lock enclosed in 10 story high walls, then watch as it rapidly filled with water before we floated out the front. Here are a few pictures of that experience.